Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s best restaurants, one might expect renowned Michelin-starred venues. Yet, situated near the top among these culinary heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a outlying part of northern London.
This compact Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the city by a respected gastronomic guide. The accolade has made the owners utterly shocked.
“I am completely astonished,” says a owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their small restaurant securing such a prominent ranking on a respected 99-strong list.
This compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a popular food hotspot, has maintained much of its original charm. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking display, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” comments the owner.
However, it is all down to the cuisine, and this establishment more than excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a moist, juicy consistency.
It is then added into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in gradually. As the savoury mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is folded neatly inside.
The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.
Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.
When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a richer, toastier and less sickly profile.
Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.
Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, comparable experiences at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.
It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.
“I feel what is paramount is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”
The view is shared by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.
In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at elite establishments. “I am really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.
Many restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.
“My mum was very tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a life outside work but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.
The restaurant’s accolade is bound to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I believe numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the greater meaning of this culinary honour.